ARISTO-CRAFT 0-4-0 SWITCHER W/O TENDER (TENDERS #831)
#831 "G" scale #1831 #1 scale
Front:
Remove the original coupler and retain the screw. Assemble the #831 coupler, trim the side "steps" off the shank of the draft gear box and file smooth.
Shorten the two inside ribs by trimming 1/4 inch off each end as illustrated. Make two shims from .080" thick shim stock: one, .465" x .370" to fit behind the post and the other .800" x .555" to fit in front of the trimmed ribs (the same size as the draft gear box lid, using a #789/835 lid as a shim works very well).
Measure .495" from the back end of the draft gear box shank and use a #43 drill (2-56 clearance) and drill a hole through the shank along the centerline. Put the shims in place, slip the coupler into the pocket where the new hole is over the post, and secure with the original screw.
Rear:
Remove the original coupler. Trim the inside of the step boards even with the vertical braces as illustrated.
Assemble the coupler and drill a hole through the lid from the bottom of the draft gear box, through the rear hole, using a #43 drill.
Trim off the top section of the coupler pedestal forming a level platform. Drill (#50 drill) and tap the rear hole for a 2-56 screw about 3/8" deep.
Slide the coupler onto the pedestal where the gear box is on the top and the holes line up, then use a 2-56 x 3/4" screw to secure the coupler.
If the shank of the draft gear box is in the way (looks or function) you can cut it off or you can use a #837 coupler.
Also, if you wish to use a straight centerset coupler for the rear mount. Use a #789 or a #835 coupler and trim the pedestal 3/8" more. You may have to file a small amount from the sides of the box or the braces to fit the coupler onto the shorter mount.
Check the coupler for the correct coupler height, function, and clearance. Make any adjustments necessary.
The overhang of the locomotive ends may limit the locomotive to 8 foot diameter (4 foot radius curves) depending on the length of car it's coupled to.
